Junkyard Window Install [Day 14]

Window Install

Like I mentioned in yesterday’s van build journal, we actually did install one of the windows yesterday night. We were up until 11 pm, so I didn’t have it in me to write a whole long blog post about it, so today’s post is going to detail how we installed both of our windows.

On build day 10 we got our two windows from a junkyard for $25 each. Then Austin reconditioned the windows and put screens in them. The last bit of preparation that we needed to do to get the windows ready for install was to figure out how we were going to mount them. Originally, we built wood frames that we intended to use for mounting. However, once we started to measure the available area inside the van, we realized this wasn’t the best way to attach them. So we used a drill press to machine holes into the frames at set intervals, and plan to attach the windows using screws through these holes directly into the sheet metal around the window opening.

 

Tools and materials:

• Cardboard as large as the window
• Utility knife
• Pencil
• Strong magnets, sock, something metal like a drill bit
• Painter’s tape
• Punch and hammer
• Drill & drill bits
• Jigsaw & metal jigsaw blades (multiple)
• Gorilla Tape/Duck tape
• Rubber washers/spacers
• Stainless steel screws
• Ratchet screwdriver

 

How to install repurposed windows

Step 1: Prep install area

Make sure you clean the area you will be installing the window. This means washing the side of your van.

 

Step 2: Make a cardboard template

First, you’ll want to trace the part of the window that will be inserted into the hole. Be sure you’re not tracing the frame, or your hole will be too big. Trace onto cardboard (one continuous piece is best), and cut out using a utility knife.

I started cutting using scissors but quickly found that a knife was much easier. Just be sure to lay another piece of cardboard beneath the template so you don’t damage the floor beneath or dull your knife blade.

 

Step 3: Identify limits

Figure out limits of where the window can be installed. While the area on the outside of a sprinter van looks like quite a large canvas for installing the windows, once you look inside you’ll realize that there are really specific areas that windows can be put in.

What we did to outline these areas on the outside of the van was to develop a marking system with magnets. We put 4 super strong neodymium magnets in a sock (so they wouldn’t scratch the paint ), and stuck them on the inside of the van. On the outside, we used a drill bit with a little piece of felt attached (again, so it wouldn’t scratch) to find where the magnet was on the inside.

I would stand on the inside and move the magnet inside the corner of the cutout area, and Austin would move the drill bit around on the outside to find the edge of the magnets. Then he would mark the limits using painter’s tape. We did this for all 4 corners and the midpoints on each side, to create a shape of painter’s tape on the outside of the van that indicated the interior limits for our window.

 

Step 4: Trace the template

Tape up your cardboard template where you’d like it within the limits you just marked. Make sure it is level compared to something on the van. We decided to center it in the limits, and level it based on the distance from the bottom of the “bump in” area for the windows. We did this because the top of the bump in is actually at an angle, not straight, so that would have made it look crooked.

Step back and take a  look. Are you happy with how it looks? Maybe even have one person go over and hold the window in front of the template, so you can visualize it better.

Once you’re sure you love it, trace the template with a fine point permanent marker. Then, put painter’s tape all around this line (making sure you can still see the line). This will keep the jigsaw from scratching your paint as it drags along the surface. Check that the tape is as wide as the area that the jigsaw will contact.

 

Step 5: Punch and drill

Punch a divot in the first corner to make it easier for the drill to grab on the smooth metal surface of the van. You can do this with a sharp object (punch) and a hammer, with one small tap. Then, drill a hole big enough to put a jigsaw blade in to start cutting.

We cut holes in each corner for our first window but didn’t end up needing them. For the second window install, we just drilled one hole to start and it worked out great.

 

Step 6: Cut with a jigsaw

Put your jigsaw into the hole you just drilled, and cut along the outline you traced. Keep in mind that the outline will be the exact size of the window, so you will want to cut outside the line to make sure the hole is slightly larger than the window, and it can fit on the first try. Most window frames are at least 1/2″ so you have a pretty big margin for error. This means that cutting a slightly bigger hole is better than cutting a hole that is too small.

The first hole we cut was perfect, and the window went in on the first try. For some reason, the hole for the second window was just a little too small in several places, so we ended up spending a ton of time filing it down and cutting more with the jigsaw (which is more challenging when you already have a hole).

Tip: Secure the sheet metal in the hole with strong tape as you cut. This will prevent serious vibrations from deforming the sheet metal, and make it easier to cut.

We used super-strong gorilla tape (painter’s tape will not be strong enough) and taped the midpoint of each side as well as each corner once it was cut. This prevented the sheet metal from wiggling too much, which made Austin’s job easier as he was cutting.

Tip: Change the jigsaw blade as needed.

At first, we weren’t sure if the jigsaw was going to be able to cut through the “uprights” (extra supports inside the window area), but we gave it a try and it cut no problem. However, after cutting about half of each window hole, we needed to replace the jigsaw blade because it was getting dull.

 

Step 7: File & paint the edges

Use a metal file to clean the edges.  Be sure to brush off (using a dustpan brush) or wipe off (using a rag) the small metal shavings around the hole. Once the hole is clean, make sure the window fits! When you’re sure the window fits, remove it, and treat the exposed metal for rust.

Then spray paint the outside and inside of the hole to prevent rust. We pressed a cardboard box up against the hole on the inside (when spraying the outside) and outside (when spraying the inside) to prevent over-spray. Leave the painter’s tape in place for this, and then pull it off once you’ve given the paint about 15 minutes to dry (this is soooo satisfying!).

 

Step 8: Apply silicone

Add a LOT of silicone caulk to the inside of the window frame, on the part that will be pressed up against the side of the van. This is a water sealant, as well as an adhesive, that will hold your window in and prevent it from leaking!

We chose to use black Permatex RTV sealant because our frames are black and we didn’t want white or clear sealant to yellow in the sun.

You’ll notice that this is in a different order than our fan install, because we figured out a way to pre-drill the holes through the window frame (instead of tracing them, removing the window, pre-drilling them, replacing the window, and tightening the screws), which I’ll cover below.

 

Step 9: Insert Window

This is pretty straightforward, just put the window back in the hole! Be very careful when lining it up so that you don’t get silicone sealant all over the side of your van. We did a two-person install, where we both lined up the bottom edge, then moved it so that the bottom corners would fit, then pushed the window in from bottom to top. This prevented a lot of mess.

 

Step 10: Pre-drill holes

Once the window is in place, we used a drill bit to pre-drill the holes. Like I mentioned earlier, we were able to save some time and skip a few steps by pre-drilling the holes through the frame instead of tracing them then drilling them. We managed this by using rubber washers/spacers placed around the drill bit. This helped because when the drill bit went through the metal, the drill would slam into the metal frame. The rubber spacers protected the frame from getting dented or scuffed.

 

Step 11: Hand tighten screws

For this installation, we used stainless steel sheet metal screws so we wouldn’t have any problems with rust. We will be painting the ends black so that they blend in better with the frames. I hand tightened the screws using a ratchet screwdriver (if you don’t have one of these, they’re worth investing in, they are so much easier than a regular screwdriver).

 

Step 12: Clean Up

Cutting a hole through sheet metal means a lot of tiny metal shavings everywhere. You’ll want to clean this up extra good to make sure that they don’t create surfaces for rust to start. If you have a bulkhead door, I’d recommend closing it so you’re not getting metal shavings on your seats. Then, shop vacuum everything up when you’re done. You can also use compressed air to blow the metal shavings off of the outside of the van.

Tip: Try to catch the metal shavings in a bucket to prevent them from getting everywhere. This will make cleanup easier.

 

The Verdict

Again, I was nervous to be cutting such huge, irreversible holes in the sides of our van. But it went really well, and the windows look great. The installs took a little longer because we wanted to be careful about the placement, and make sure that they were installed level. We also cut our second hole too small, and that took about an hour of extra cutting and filing to get it the right size.

Overall, the time we spent on our windows was a lot more than the time you would spend to install OEM or Sprinter-specific aftermarket windows. That’s because we had to find them and pull them out of a junkyard, replace the pane that had a bullet hole, add screens, and drill press holes in the frame to attach it to the side of the van. However, that extra time and effort was definitely worth saving $950!

 

9/12/2020

Build Day #14

Hours Worked: 16

• Becky – 8
• Austin – 8
• Total Project Hours: 168

Money Spent: $28

• Wood adhesive (Home Depot) – $10
• Goof Off (Home Depot) – $4
• Silicone Adhesive (Advance Auto Parts) – $14
• Total Project Spending: $18,384

Tasks Complete: 1

• Install 1 window (passenger side door)

Questions Googled: 0

 

WANT TO REMEMBER THIS? SAVE THESE TIPS TO YOUR FAVORITE PINTEREST BOARD